If you’ve only ever ordered curry and rice from an Indian restaurant, you’ve missed the one dish a lot of Indians would choose as their last meal. Biryani is rice and meat — or vegetables — slow-cooked together with whole spices, and a good one doesn’t need much else on the table.
What makes a biryani a biryani
It isn’t fried rice, and it isn’t a curry ladled over rice. A proper biryani starts with long-grain basmati that’s only part-cooked, then gets layered with marinated meat or vegetables, caramelised onions, herbs and spices, and left to finish gently in a sealed pot. The trapped steam works its way into every grain. When you dig in, you’ll find white rice next to grains gone golden from saffron or the masala, and each spoonful tastes a little different.
The main styles you’ll see
- Hyderabadi: the best known. Rich, aromatic and often made “dum” style, slow-cooked under a seal.
- Lucknowi (Awadhi): milder and more fragrant, with the spices kept subtle.
- Kolkata: lighter, and famous for including a potato.
- Vegetable or paneer: a full meal for vegetarians, not an afterthought.
Chicken, lamb or goat?
Chicken biryani is the easy first choice. Lamb and goat take longer to cook and give a deeper, richer flavour, so they’re worth trying once you know you like the dish. Bone-in meat is traditional and tastes better, so don’t be surprised to find it.
What to eat with it
Biryani is a complete meal, so keep the sides simple. Raita cools it down. A plain salad of onion, cucumber and lemon cuts through the richness. In some homes, a thin gravy called salan is served on the side. You don’t need naan or another curry, though nobody will stop you.
Is it spicy?
Biryani is more fragrant than hot. Most of the heat comes from the marinade and the odd green chilli, and most restaurants keep it around medium. If you’re not sure, just ask, and keep the raita close.
Where to order one
If you’re in South Auckland, Indian Zaika, an Indian restaurant in Papakura, has a dedicated biryani menu. It’s at 46 Broadway, and it does dine-in, takeaway and local delivery.
Next time you’re stuck between three curries, order one biryani instead. It’s one dish, one container, and very little washing up.
